Hyderabad has always been referred to as the “city of pearls” . . .
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| From pearls of hyd |
The Nizams of Hyderabad led a very luxorious lifestyle they have a good taste of fine arts ,they used to invite craftsman from all over the world especially from the middle east, where we get to see rare pearls in abundance. That’s why quite rightly most people associate Hyderabad with pearls.
The first Pearl vendor
Pearls in Hyderabad have a long history. Ram Dutt Malji, a Haryanvi pearl trader, became a royal jeweler.
His son, Seth Kedarnathji Motiwale, opened the first ever pearl shop in Patthargatti way back in 1906. Intitially, the trade in pearls depended on the pearls coming from the Persian Gulf.
There are two kinds of pearls-real or cultured. After a pearl is made, it is separated as per the shape. The drilling is either done horizontally or vertically. This is done by highly skilled artisans.
Once this is done, the pearls are graded according to the sheen, glaze, shape, size, luster and uniformity.
Bracelet made of Pearls
Various kinds of ornaments are made from pearls like bracelets, Kundan sets and enameled sets, Satlads (seven strand pearl, set with precious stones), lacchas, chand bali (a moon shaped ear-ring), chokers, rassi (a chain set in the form of rope) chatai (a mat type chain, ear rings and rings), hath phool (for the fingers and the wrist), vaddenam (waist belt) and Tanmani.
Some of the famous pearl shops in Hyderabad are: Mangatrai (Patthargatti and Basheerbagh), Kedarnathji Motiwale and Jagadamba (Charminar, Begumpet and M G Road ).
Various kinds of ornaments are made from pearls like bracelets, Kundan sets and enameled sets, Satlads (seven strand pearl, set with precious stones), lacchas, chand bali (a moon shaped ear-ring), chokers, rassi (a chain set in the form of rope) chatai (a mat type chain, ear rings and rings), hath phool (for the fingers and the wrist), vaddenam (waist belt) and Tanmani.
Some of the famous pearl shops in Hyderabad are: Mangatrai (Patthargatti and Basheerbagh), Kedarnathji Motiwale and Jagadamba (Charminar, Begumpet and M G Road ).
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Types of Pearls
Cultured Pearls :
A cultured pearl is not an artificial or synthetic pearl. It is still produced by a pearl oyster or mollusk and by normal processes of pearl growth. The only difference between the natural pearl and the cultured variety is that the nucleus has been inserted into the oyster to enable the pearl to have a good start. It ensures a larger and more evenly shaped pearl and is produced in a shorter period of time. Natural pearls (see below) are extremely rare and expensive.
Natural Pearls:
Pearls that were taken from the waters in ancient times were natural. Today they are very rare and extremely expensive. If a pearl vendor tells you it's natural, she probably means cultivated. If it really is natural, it's probably not going to be in one of China's wholesale pearl markets.
Imitation Pearls:
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Imitation pearls are made from glass, plastic or shell beads which are then coated. They are usually obvious in their extremely uniform shape and color. Pearl vendors are more than happy to prove to you that their pearls are real by using a scraping test. See "Avoiding Fakes" below.
Pearl Value:
A number of factors determine the value of a pearl.
- Size: The larger the pearl, the rarer and more valuable it is.
- Shape: A critical factor, the most expensive being the perfect sphere (more common in sea water pearls).
- Luster: This is the glow on the surface, not to be confused with the slightly iridescent colors that seem to be under the skin of the pearl.
- Skin: The fewer blemishes, the higher the quality.
- Matching: This is obviously important when determining the quality of a whole strand.
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Colors:
Fresh water pearls naturally occur in white, ivory, pink, peach and coral. You'll find an amazing range of colors in the markets from silvers and dark grays, electric blues and greens, firey oranges and yellows, and neon purples and lavenders.
Avoiding Fakes:
Telling the difference between imitation pearls and the real ones is quite simple: the tooth test! When you rub a real pearl - natural or cultured - across your teeth, the pearl will feel slightly gritty. Do the same with a fake and it's likely to feel smooth and slippery.
If you're still having trouble deciding whether it's real, ask the vendor to scrape the pearl with a knife. Powder will result in scraping a real pearl, a white plastic bead will be revealed from a fake pearl.
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| From pearls of hyd |
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| From pearls of hyd |
The Simple natural pearl test:
To find out whether pearls are natural, simple dip them in hot water. Natural pearls retains their colour while cultured pearls tend to fade.Many pearls look quite similar. But there are certain intricate factors that determine a pearl’s worth. Lustre and size are generally considered to be the two major factors. Lustre for instance, depends on the fineness and evenness of the layers.
The deeper the glow, the more perfect the shape and surface, the more valuable they get. The lustre of a pearl too determines its price. The thumb-rule to go by is to look for one’s reflection by gazing into the pearl. The foggier the reflection, the cheaper the pearl. Size, on the other hand, has to do with the age of the oyster that created the pearl (the maturer oysters produce larger pearls) and the location in which the pearl was cultured. White pearls have traditionally been popular in Hyderabad.
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A good quality white pearl reflects a lovely sky blue colour under ultraviolet light, whereas a poor quality one emanates a greenish or mustardish sheen. Black pearls that have a green sheen and baroque (irregular shaped) pearls that reflect a rainbow of colours are also amongst the more valuable varieties. Natural pearls (Those made without man’s assistance) have become so rare and expensive, that for the vast majority of people cultured is the only option. However, top quality natural and cultured pearls are identical to the naked eye in terms of appearance and quality. Only under an X-ray machine can a trained eye discern any difference. Cultured pearls tend to have a larger core or nucleus. In all other respects, they are identical. The best-cultured pearls are those that come from an oyster that dies after the pearl is removed. Oysters, which do not die after the pearl is extracted, produce what are referred to as "Biwa" pearls.
Pearls also come in many colours. The most popular colours are whites and creams. Silver, black, gold and pinks are also gaining interest.
Pearls also come in many colours. The most popular colours are whites and creams. Silver, black, gold and pinks are also gaining interest.
coral pearl
A deep lustrous black pearl is one of the more rare finds in the pearl industry. Thus, they are expensive.
Imitation pearls are a different story altogether. In most cases, a glass bead is dipped into a solution made from fish scales. This coating is thin and may eventually wear off. One can usually tell an imitation by biting on it. Fake pearls glide across your teeth, while the layers of nacre on real pearls feel gritty.
Imitation pearls are a different story altogether. In most cases, a glass bead is dipped into a solution made from fish scales. This coating is thin and may eventually wear off. One can usually tell an imitation by biting on it. Fake pearls glide across your teeth, while the layers of nacre on real pearls feel gritty.
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